Our journey was still somewhat epic, but in the totally miserable, everyone is stuck on a train for a thousand hours variety. Here, for your viewing pleasure, photos! And please don't travel by train in North India in the foggy months. We learned that the hard way.
We stayed at the Holy Ganges View, which we thought was the same as the Ganges View, which is very posh and much more expensive. However, despite being a budget hotel, the Holy Ganges View is clean, warm, and fairly centrally located.
I got my coffee fix at the Open Hand Cafe and the identical menu rip-off Mark Cafe opposite.
Pretty good firang type meals all over Assi Ghaat, but also had great street food just by stopping anywhere there was a kadhai and a throng of people.
Walking through the alleys of Benares. My stoned-ness had worn off by this point, so I felt a lot less loving.
Sunset aartis were not ruined by all the touts, however.
Also, I liked the carvings and shit. This is the next day. We went for a long walk and I found my lost temper and was happy for it.
But obviously the puppies won the day.
Old school windows are every amateur photographer's dream.
Boys playing pithoo around an old temple.
And back to the station! Merry Christmas, all! This is how we spent it--in deep despairing fog.